Getting out of Ketchikan was an exercise in patience. Storm after storm, packing lots of southerly wind and buckets of rain, pummeled the area. Even in a town that receives more than 160 inches of rainfall annually, this was exceptional. Streets flooded and locals complained about the worst summer ever. Fishing guides canceled charters. Twice we recorded more than four inches of rain in a single day. Fishermen commiserated via VHF about the intensity of the rain, and that it quickly found a path through even the best foul weather gear.
Finally, on Thursday, we got our break. The forecast—southeast 5 to 15 knots, increasing in the afternoon—wasn’t perfect, but the next few days looked substantially worse.
We were up before sunrise to check on conditions using our Dixon Entrance Weather Worksheet. Wind in the 10-knot range everywhere. Let’s go!
For the first time in weeks, the clouds parted. As we departed Ketchikan, the sun rose brilliantly. Conditions were calm. And they stayed calm, all the way to Prince Rupert. Sure, there was a bit of ocean swell, but it was low and lazy. The current against us was the only downside, and slowed our progress to the 6-knot range for much of the trip across. All in all, one of our calmer Dixon Entrance crossings.
We cleared Canadian Customs by phone (hooray for Nexus!) and arrived at Cow Bay Marina in Prince Rupert around 5:30p.m. Robin, the harbormaster, recommended Fukasaku for sushi (we were headed to Opa, originally, where we’d been before). Fukasaku was great! So now we know two good spots for sushi in Prince Rupert. (Cow Bay Cafe is our other go-to for a good meal.)
The next morning we walked into town for groceries (fresh produce!) and wine, and then headed out of Prince Rupert and toward the outside of the Inside Passage. We’ve seen Grenville Channel plenty…time for some more new places. Next stop: Captain Cove on the west side of Pitt Island.