Laura Domela

Day 26 | Flotilla to Alaska | Pybus Bay to Red Bluff Bay

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We had a mostly smooth, rainy cruise out of Pybus Bay as we headed for Baranof Island. The east side of Baranof Island has some of the best anchorages in Southeast Alaska. They’re dramatic, with peaks towering thousands of feet above, snowfields and hanging glaciers in view, and waterfalls everywhere. Bears—brown bears only, since black bears can’t compete—frequent the shoreline. Red Bluff Bay is one of these near perfect anchorages. … Read more

Day 25 | Flotilla to Alaska | Portage Bay to Pybus Bay

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The cruise up Frederick Sound from Portage Bay to Pybus Bay is about 33 nautical miles. The wind was mostly calm (10 knots or so) with just the slightest chop. The sun was even out for a bit! We were hoping for some humpbacks today. Frederick Sound, especially around the Brothers Islands, is usually rich with whales. Today did not disappoint. We saw about a dozen of them, spread out … Read more

Day 24 | Flotilla to Alaska | Petersburg to Portage Bay

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We got up early and left late from Petersburg this morning after a flurry of grocery shopping, laundry, and other miscellaneous chores. We won’t have access to any amenities again until we reach Sitka, so it’s nice to stock up while we can. The weather was quite nice for our cruise up to Portage Bay today (about 22 nautical miles). Very little wind, no rain, and even occasional bits of … Read more

Day 23 | Flotilla to Alaska | Le Conte Glacier

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“You made it across the entrance bar??” a fellow cruiser asked incredulously. For some reason, Exploring Southeast Alaska, the most popular cruising guide for this area, makes it sound difficult, even dangerous, to go up Le Conte Bay: “We do not recommend it, except for expeditionary-type excursions…you must favor the north shore to avoid the large drying mud flats that flow out of the Stikine River North Arm, while at … Read more

Day 22 | Flotilla to Alaska | Wrangell to Petersburg

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Today’s route from Wrangell to Petersburg took us through beautiful Wrangell Narrows. Wrangell Narrows is one of the trickier parts of this trip. It’s winding, shallow, and….narrow. Traffic can be heavy, with little space for ferries and barges to pass boats like ours. Currents run swiftly. Fishing boats zoom erratically. In 20 nautical miles, the Coast Guard maintains about 60 aids to navigation. Just north of the mid-point, near a place … Read more

Day 21 | Flotilla to Alaska | Meyers Chuck to Wrangell

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Day 21 began with the delivery of Cassie’s famous cinnamon rolls to the boats in Meyers Chuck. With pastries securely on board consumed, the flotilla cast off lines and headed for Wrangell. Clarence Strait was calm again. As we motored northwest in Ernest Sound the sun briefly appeared and winds remained light. By the time we got to Zimovia Strait the sun was gone, but we still had views of snowcapped … Read more

Day 20 | Flotilla to Alaska | Ketchikan to Meyers Chuck

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We left Ketchikan around 9:00 a.m. and had a beautiful, calm cruise up Clarence Strait: Clarence Strait can be a nasty body of water. It’s 100 nm long and four miles wide. Current runs to several knots. When the wind blows, it gets ugly. Any day of calm water is appreciated! Our destination was Meyers Chuck, a community of about 20 people on the northwest corner of Cleveland Peninsula. There’s … Read more

Day 19 | Flotilla to Alaska | Lay Day in Ketchikan

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Today was a lay day in Ketchikan. We figured people could use a day of rest (or chores or exploring) since we’ve been moving swiftly since meeting at Roche Harbor a couple weeks ago. Now that we’re in Alaska we can reset the pace a bit. Yesterday we were lucky enough to see some sun, but today was mostly rainy and gray (because…Ketchikan). The morning started with a bit of excitement. A small boat … Read more